Thursday, November 12, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Travels to South America in November

On November 12, 2009, the Montauk Club Wine Class took a whirlwind tour through Argentina and Chile, and what a ride it was! We started out comparing a 2008 MontGras Reserva Carmenère from Colchagua Valley, Chile (Chile's signature grape at 14.5% alcohol!) with a 2007 Lapostolle Casa Merlot (13% alcohol) from Rapel Valley, Chile. Then we tangoed on to Argentina to compare its signature malbec -- a 2006 Luigi Bosca Reserva (14% alcohol) from the Mendoza region -- with a 2007 Navarro Correas Coleccion Privada Cabernet Sauvignon (13.9% alcohol), also from the Mendoza region. In a rare experience for the wine class, perhaps thanks to the great tasting notes that Jim prepared ahead of time, we unanimously correctly identified each wine in our blind tasting. Here's what we thought:

Both of the Chilean wines had a deep, inky and opaque purple color with lots of legs, although wine #2 was a tad less viscous than #1. That's where the similarities ended, however. Wine #1 had a milder more medicinal aroma -- not particularly distinctive and more delicate than its looks. Wine #2, on the other hand, shouted aromas of chocolate, vanilla and plum against a background of woods and brambles. The smells carried through to the flavors as well. Wine #1 was light and elegant and made for easy drinking. It had a slight hit of tannin but otherwise was bright and soft. Wine #2 was quite a bit rounder and fuller in flavor with a spicy finish. Though it appeared less viscous, it had a much bigger taste with notes of toasted herbs. Its rounder flavor gave it a smoother feel, but we could definitely taste the higher alcohol content. Our conclusion: Wine #1 was the merlot, and wine #2 was the carmenère.

Our trip to Argentina started out in a similar fashion as both wines had a deep, inky purple color. The legs on wine #3, however, took a bit longer to form. Wine #4 had thin gams, as they say. Again, these wines diverged when it came to smell. Wine #3 smelled of vanilla, pepper and coffee, while wine #4 was more savory with herbs, olives and raisins dominating the aroma. These were quite distinguishable in taste, as well. Wine #3 was fruitier and sweeter and had a soft feel. In wine #4, the olives that we smelled came through in the taste big time. This wine was spicier with tannins showing up in the finish. While we thought wine #3 would be good with hard cheese and was something we might keep drinking through dessert, we thought both wines cried out for meat. Because of the distinct tannins in wine #4, we correctly identified it as the cabernet sauvignon. Wine #3, of course, was the malbec which also took the prize for being the favorite of the night.

At our next class on December 17, we'll celebrate the holidays in sparkling style with four offerings: a Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne, a Veuve-Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne, a Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut Cava from Spain and a LaMarca Prosecco from Italy. So don't miss our European holiday extravaganza.

I hope to see you all on December 17 around sevenish!! Plan to stay for dinner. And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com and on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Goes for Oak and Tannin in October

At the October 15, 2009 wine class, we returned to some basic concepts -- oakiness and tannin. For oakiness we crossed continents to compare a white French burgundy, a 2008 Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay (13% alcohol), which should have little oak flavor, with a new style California chardonnay, 2006 Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay (14.1% alcohol), that should be bursting with oak. Here's how we fared.

We found that the two whites looked very much alike, although we thought the second one was a bit golder in color. When we got to the smell though, the second had more notes of wood and wet wool. It seemed a bit grassy, while the first one smelled fruitier. When we got to the taste, we had a harder time distinguishing. The first wine tasted drier and lighter to some although others thought it grabbed the tongue more and had a stronger flavor. Some thought the second wine was an oak monster with a more insolent taste (a la teenager), even though it had a clean finish. Others thought it had a more pleasurable mouth feel. Well despite the descriptions people came up with, more members of the class chose the first wine as the oaky one, but they were wrong. It was the Laforet. The second wine was the Beringer. Thankfully, one of our member would happily drink either at a cocktail party.

Next it was on to explore tannin, that characteristic of wine that coats your tongue and even makes you pucker. Here we pitted a low tannin 2006 Clos du Bois North Coast Pinot Noir (13.5% alcohol) against a high tannin 2005 Franciscan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alcohol).

We could almost tell just from the look which was the pinot noir and which was the cab, one being almost see-through and the other inky and opaque. The first wine had a crisper smell, more like grape juice than wine, perfect for a mid-afternoon snack. (I'd like to know where that person works who has wine in the afternoon!) By contrast, the second wine had a richer, more complex, almost velvety aroma. It seemed like something to have with an elegant dinner or with a cigar after closing a deal. (I'm beginning to see the proper workday progression here.) When we got around to tasting, the contrasts were even more apparent. The first wine had soft, floral notes. It was fruity yet subtle, and in ways more drinkable. The second wine tasted gritty and complex and was drying on the tongue. It's what you'd expect at a state dinner and quite fulfilling. Well, it wasn't hard for us to decide that the first was the pinot noir and the second was the cabernet sauvignon. Tannin? We get it!!

Our next wine class for various reasons (like the Club will be closed for another Scorsese film shoot) is scheduled for November 12. That evening we'll be beamed to South America. We'll be tasting a 2008 MontGras Reserva Carmenère from Colchagua Valley, Chile (14.5% alcohol!). The carmenère is Chile's distinctive varietal. We'll compare that with a 2007 Lapostolle Casa Merlot (13% alcohol) from Rapel Valley, Chile. Then we're on to tango land to taste Argentina's signature malbec -- a 2006 Luigi Bosca Reserva (14% alcohol) from the Mendoza region. Then we'll compare that with a 2007 Navarro Correas Coleccion Privada Cabernet Sauvignon (13.9% alcohol), also from the Mendoza region.

I hope to see you all for our next class on November 12 around sevenish!! Plan to stay for dinner, as these wines are going to be great with food. And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com and on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Experiences White-out in September

Despite the white-out at our September 17 wine tasting, the only ones who were chilled were the wines. Our all white tasting last month we tasted a Flying Fish 2007 Washington State Riesling (12% alcohol), a 2006 Geil Rheinhessen Riesling Spätlese (8% alcohol), a 2007 Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre (12.5% alcohol) and a 2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc (14.5% alcohol). Our mission was to distinguish the dry and sweet Rieslings and the crisp and not-so-crisp sauvignon blancs. How did we fare? Well the Rieslings were pretty easy, but not so the sauvignon blancs. Here's what we thought.

Our first Riesling had a peachy darkness to it compared to the second. It appeared a bit sticky as the legs didn't even really descend down the glass. Its aroma was a bit confounding as we picked up both jammy and chemical smells like paint or turpentine. When we got to the tasting part, however, it was a different story. We found canned peaches galore and could not really taste the alcohol that we smelled. It could have been a juice rather than a wine, although it coated our tongues quite a bit. For one of our tasters, it gave an overall feeling of going on a hay ride and bobbing for apples.

The second Riesling was a tad lighter in color and showed its legs. The smell was much more pleasant with subtle floral notes like a rose garden. It seemed to throw off a greater alcohol scent as well. Unlike the first Riesling, this one's taste was closer to its smell. While we picked up on the typical peach and apricot flavor of Rieslings here, we also sensed some grapefruit overtones, perhaps from the seemingly higher alcohol content that came through in the taste. We all thought this Riesling might pair better with food, while the first was more of a stand-alone drink. Based on the taste, we unanimously, and correctly chose the first as the sweet German Spätlese and the second as the drier Washington State Riesling.

When we moved on to the sauvignon blancs, we had a lot more trouble telling the more acidic, or crisper, Sancerre from the less crisp fumé blanc. The first one we tasted had a paler color and appeared less viscous. We thought the smell was thinner but fruitier with tinges of cumquats, unripe peaches and stewed tomatoes (they are fruits after all). When we got to the taste we found sour apple and lime flavors, as well as the stewed tomatoes again. We thought we picked up a hint of bitterness too and could definitely taste the alcohol.

The second sauvignon blanc had a little more color to it and a richer aroma. Some thought of pickles when smelling it while others picked up mineral aromas and tar. We thought we tasted even more alcohol along with green apples mixed with pine needles. Some found this one more tangy than the first, but the mineral tones made it seem less crisp and led us to believe this was the fumé blanc. Well 75% of us were wrong. The first was the supposedly less crisp fumé blanc, and the second was the crisper Sancerre. So we simply decided in the end that Robert Mondavi is doing a wonderful job of producing a wine that is very close to its French ancestor.

Interestingly, the clear favorite of the four wines we tried was the Washington State Riesling. Good thing we had an extra bottle on hand!

At our next class on October 15 (as early as a third Thursday can get), we'll explore a couple more basic concepts -- oakiness and tannic. This time there will be something for both white wine and red wine lovers. First we'll compare 2008 Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay (13% alcohol) that should have no oak flavor with an oaky 2006 Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay (14.1% alcohol). Then we'll see whether we can distinguish a low tannin 2006 Clos du Bois North Coast Pinot Noir (13.5% alcohol) from a high tannin 2005 Franciscan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alcohol). It wouldn't hurt to practice a bit ahead of time. Otherwise, you can just review pages 25 through 32 and 46 through 47 of Andrea Immer Robinson’s book Great Wines Made Simple.

So I'll see you all for our next class on October 15 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com and on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Goes Above and Beyond

Beyond the big six reds, that is. We decided to explore some red varietals that we often run across on restaurant menus but know very little about. So our August 19 travels took us to the Finger Lakes right here in New York to try a Hermann J. Weimer 2007 Cabernet Franc (12.5% alcohol). Then we headed off to the Left Coast for a Rosenblum 2006 Zinfandel from Paso Robles, California (14.9% alcohol) and finally a David Bruce 2005 Central Coast Petite Sirah (13.8% alcohol). Once again, there weren't many of us at the class, but we had quite a bit to say. Perhaps because bottle #1 in our blind taste test turned out to be the mighty zinfandel. Here's what we thought going from lightest to fullest bodied.

Some of us thought we recognized the cabernet franc right away because of its more translucent color compared to the other two wines. Also, it seemed not to have a leg to stand on. The blend of fruit and cranberry aromas gave it a lighter, subtler smell. True to its more northern location on the flavor map, it had a brighter, more acidic taste with winter fruits and vegetables like cranberries and rhubarb showing through. The mouth feel was so silky that the wine literally slid across the tongue.

The petite syrah actually turned out to be lighter bodied than the zinfandel, although that's not what we expected from reading Andrea's description. Its legs did not quite have the viscosity of the zinfandel's, but they did have plenty of color. We would describe the mouth feel as satin. Unlike the other two wines which were quite fruity, the petite syrah had a bit of floral scents and bittersweet chocolate mixed in with the aromas of blueberry and bubble gum. This combination even reminded one among us of tuna fish! In the taste department, we picked up again on the bitterness and earthy tones in the pronounced finish.

The big power house turned out to be the zinfandel. The strong grape jelly smell together with the high alcohol content really grabbed us, and since this turned out to be the first wine in our blind tasting, it was a wonder we could pick up on any scents with the other two. The same held true for the flavor which was concentrated like dried figs and molasses accented by tobacco and tar. Needless to say, it felt like velvet coating our tongues. Even though we expected the petite syrah to be fuller bodied, we recognized this as the zinfandel from Andrea's description of "decadent fig".

And our favorite? Well, we were evenly split between the petite syrah and the zinfandel. (No namby pamby cabernet franc for us!)

At our next class on September 17, instead of venturing into the great unknown, we're going to review some of our basic concepts. To make up for August's big red foray, we'll be having an all whites class while we compare dry and sweet rieslings and crisp and not-so-crisp sauvignon blancs. In case you want to do a little hands on homework, the specific wines we'll be tasting are a Flying Fish 2007 Washington State Riesling (12% alcohol), a 2006 Geil Rheinhessen Riesling Spätlese (8% alcohol), a 2007 Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre (12.5% alcohol) and a 2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc (14.5% alcohol). Otherwise, you can just review pages 25 through 32 and 44 through 45 of Andrea Immer Robinson’s book Great Wines Made Simple.

So I'll see you all for our next class on September 17 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com and on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Small Turnout, Big Flavor at Montauk Club Wine Class

Our July 16 wine class suffered a bit from summer vacation absenteeism I'm afraid, but I think the vacationers, not the wine class attendees, were the losers. We had three wonderful, but very different white wines from Spain that lived up to every bit of the billing that Andrea gave them in her book. It was quite a refreshing summer respite for us, I must say.

Our first excursion took us to Jerez in Andalusia to taste a Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Extra Dry Light Sherry (no vintage, 15% alcohol). This was a far cry from the "sherry teas" I remember from Sunday afternoons in my freshman college dorm. Those were so sweet and syrupy that, despite the lure of free alcohol, I "moved on" shall we say after a couple of tries. The Tio Pepe, on the other hand, was nice and dry with a crisp, acidic finish. The overwhelming flavor and aroma is that of almonds, even though the color was a very pale yellow. After a bit, the taste of dried apricots came through. Now this is what I'm talking about for a garden party!

Next we headed off to the Rias Baixas region in the far northwest province of Galicia for a 2008 La Cana Albariño (13% alcohol). If we thought the sherry was pale, this was the color of white peaches. And of course, as soon as someone said that about the color, we all tasted it as well. Comparing this to the sherry is like comparing apples (specifically green ones) to oranges, or rather almonds and apricots, because the styles are so different. This traditional Spanish white had a relatively full body with a feeling of velvet coating the tongue. We noted lots of fruit in the taste -- ripe plums, pineapple and even lichee. So despite its somewhat northern clime for Spain, and its floral scents, it was smoother and less crisp, but mouthwatering nonetheless.

Finally, we zipped over to the Penedes region near Barcelona to try a sparkling Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava (12% alcohol). Cava is what the Spanish call their sparkling wines, and if you ever have an opportunity to have one instead of a French champagne as a pre-dinner whistle-wetter, this is a great value. The Freixenet (say fresh-e-nay -- Catalan again) had a pale greenish color which was a clue when we smelled and tasted it that we would find quite a bit of grassiness to it. This was balanced with quite a bit of butter making the overall experience spicy and creamy at the same time. For a sparkler, it had sturdy legs and a great deal of body. Perhaps because the varietal here is unmistakably chardonnay.

Next month, we decided to explore some red varietals that we often run across on restaurant menus but know very little about. Our travels are going to bring us back to the good old USA where we will try a Hermann J. Weimer 2007 Cabernet Franc from the Finger Lakes right here in New York (12.5% alcohol). Then we're off to the Left Coast for a Rosenblum 2006 Zinfandel (no, not the pink stuff called white zinfandel; this is really red) from Paso Robles, California (14.9% alcohol -- oh goody!) and finally a David Bruce 2005 Central Coast (still west) Petite Sirah (13.8% alcohol). For a brief, general discussion of these varietals, see pages 239 to 240 of Andrea Immer Robinson’s book Great Wines Made Simple.

Can't wait to see you all for our next class on August 19 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com. They’re also coming soon in searchable form on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class on the Road Again

On June 18, we hit the road again, this time transporting ourselves to several regions of Spain. The first stop was the Rioja region, which is a couple of hours NNE of Madrid, where we sampled a 2003 Marqués de Riscal Reserva from Rioja (14% alcohol). Then we headed west to the Toro region along the Rio Duero to try a 2003 Oro by Bodegas Mähler-Besse (13.5% alcohol). The last leg of trip then took us way east to the surroundings of Barcelona for a taste of a 2007 Priorat called Onix (14.5% alcohol). With Spain, like France, we refer to wines by region, so that’s what we’ll do here. This is what’s recorded in our travel journal:

We had a very traditional introduction to Spanish reds with the Rioja, made from the tempranillo grape. Marqués de Riscal is a venerable bodega (no not a corner grocery; that’s the Spanish word for winery), although it is connected to a Frank Gehry designed hotel which makes a striking statement on the landscape when you first see it a couple of kilometers away. The wine, a reserve, meaning it has spent at least 18 months aging in the cask, had a distinctly plum color that diffused around the edges, creating somewhat of a halo effect. It had a lower viscosity or lighter body than the other two wines judging from its legs. We first noted a vanilla scent until more herbal, grassy tones came through, particularly oregano. What made this seem more traditional or Old World was the balance of tannins, herbs, plums and mustiness like light Bordeaux. (Indeed, that was the competition when this winery came into being.) We liked this with the Manchego cheese that we had at the same time.

The Toro, made from the tinto de toro grape, which is very similar to the tempranillo, had a bit more body than the Rioja and was clearly the inkiest of the three wines we tried. The smell smacked of gravel and earth or perhaps a sandy beach with a hint of ocean air in the background. It seemed a bit bolder in that not only did the fruits – blackberry and black plum – come through more strongly, but also one could really taste the terroir, funky or moldy like decomposing hay. Moreover, it had quite a tannic mouth feel. We thought we’d prefer this wine with a juicy steak or a hearty paella valenciana.

We expected even more body and boldness from our third wine, the Priorat. (Not a Spanish looking or sounding name? Try Catalan.) In fact while it was purpler in color than the Rioja, it was not quite as inky as the Toro. You could see the color in the legs, though. This wine had very rich aromas of black cherry or even a fruit compote while at the same time giving off floral scents. All of the smells (except the shoe polish that one person caught) showed up again in the taste. It had a greater fruit flavor that even reminded some of us of maraschino cherries. At the same time it seemed silkier and smoother than the other two wines reflecting a style less balanced by tannins. Perhaps because of the high alcohol content, it tasted clean and dry. Several people thought this wine was quite drinkable on its own.

On preferences, we were pretty evenly split among the three, but we managed to finish every last drop through dinner.

We decided to stay in Spain in July to explore a variety of white wines. On July 16, we’ll first trip down south to Jerez in Andalusia to taste a Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Extra Dry Light Sherry (no vintage, 15% alcohol – should get us off and running quite nicely). Then we’re off to the Rias Baixas region in the far northwest province of Galicia for a 2008 La Cana Albariño (13% alcohol). Then we’ll finish up our tour back by Barcelona in the Penedes region with a sparkling Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava (12% alcohol). If you want to review Spanish wines, check out pages 251 through 257 and 290 of Andrea Immer Robinson’s book Great Wines Made Simple.

See you all for our next class on July 16 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com. They’re also coming soon in searchable form on the Club’s revamped website.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Red Choice Confirmed

The May 21 Montauk Club wine class began our third year of monthly tastings. Time flies when you’re tasting wine I guess. This class was a review of the most popular red varietals. We tried a 2006 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir (14.3% alcohol), a 2006 Estancia Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alcohol) and a 2006 J. Lohr Paso Robles Syrah (13.5% alcohol). We tasted them in that order to go from lightest body to fullest body. Here’s what we thought.

The pinot noir was almost transparent, as any pinot noir is likely to be. No surprises there. This wine was very appealing to the white wine lovers in the crowd because of its grassy and earthy scents. The aroma beckoned you to drink the wine. The light, acidic taste, with flavors of macoun apple and red cherries was what caught the attention of white and light wine fans. And characteristic of a lighter bodied wine, it was crisp yet silken on the tongue.

Our second wine was the medium bodied cabernet sauvignon. Not so transparent as the pinot noir, it was definitely more aggressive and complex in look and smell. Some stufents picked up hints of pepper and bubble gum at the same time and another likened it to a garden that had been freshly mulched. When we tasted the wine, we definitely discerned the body that was fuller than the pinot noir as this wine coated our mouths more, lingering on the tongue well after the first sip. This wine too abounded with red fruit flavors like cherry (or even cherry candy) and red currants. Being a California – i.e. New World wine – it was quite a bit jammier than, say, a French Bordeaux, but we liked with our chees nonetheless.

Finally, we turned to the syrah (the same grape is known in Australia as shiraz). This wine was completely different from the other two, being nearly opaque and downright inky. It had a deep smell, evoking scents of black cherries and currants. There was a note of forest floor in the scent as well with a hint of Portobello mushrooms. The taste was much like the smell, and definitely more intense than the other two wines. It coated the tongue with velvet and lingered quite a long time. Although it is a New World wine, it didn’t seem as fruit forward as we might hae expected but rather appeared fairly well balanced.

And what was our favorite? The syrah was chosen by all but one, including one of our white wine aficionados. We knew we had picked well when we noticed that a preponderance of the gnats that had invaded our space through an open window also chose the syrah over the other two wines. Maybe we do know what we’re doing.

So having roosted at home for a couple of months to complete our basic review, it’s time for us to hit the road again on June 18. This time we’re off to Spain. Yay!! We’ll try three wines from different regions in Spain – a 2003 Marqués de Riscal Reserva from Rioja (14% alcohol, made in the bodega – the Spanish word for winery – that Jim and I toured two summers ago), a 2003 Oro by Bodegas Mähler-Besse from the Toro region on the Rio Duero (13.5% alcohol) and a 2007 Priorat called Onix from a region just west of Barcelona (14.5% alcohol). If you want to read up on Spanish wines, check out pages 251 through 257 of Andrea Immer Robinson’s book Great Wines Made Simple.

See you all for our next class on June 18 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Goes Back to Basics

Having completed our world tour and all of the tastings laid out in Andrea Immer Robinson’s book, Great Wine Made Simple in March, we decided to review some of the basics at our April 16, 2009 class. After all, with wine it’s not possible to practice too much. We started our review by exploring the three most popular white varietals: a Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2003 Piesporter Goldtrőpfchen Riesling Kabinett (9.5% alcohol), a Robert Mondavi 2006 Fume Blanc from Napa Valley (14% alcohol) and an Acacia 2006 Chardonnay Carneros from Sonoma Valley (14.4% alcohol). We tasted them in that order to go from lightest body to fullest body.

The Riesling lived up to its reputation with a pale, yellow-green color and a tangy and grassy aroma. It had hardly any legs, characteristic of a light bodied wine. This particular brand was sweet but not overly so. It had quite a fruity taste with pear and canned mandarin oranges being the predominant flavors. All in all a delightful wine that a couple of members of the class favored over the other wines we tasted.

Next we turned to the fume blanc, which is another name for a sauvignon blanc grape. The Robert Mondavi winery coined the named fume blanc in reference to the Pouilly-Fume region of France where the morning mists look like smoke. The color of this wine was a straw yellow, making it look a tad riper than the Riesling. The smell was more complex as well with hints of earthiness coming through and eliciting comments like “dung”, “diesel gasoline”, “wool blanket”, “wet stones” and “barnyard”. We all noticed the fuller body as the wine coated our tongues more. As far as taste was concerned, it was tart like a green apple Jolly Rancher. Its higher acidity reminded some of early spring grass. We thought it would be better with food, particularly hot food, than the Riesling.

Finally, we tried the chardonnay, the fullest bodied of the three most popular whites. Its color was a striking yellow gold, and its aroma was quite a bit bolder with notes of fruit, lilac, oak and even glue. As one would expect from the fullest bodied wine, it really coated our tongues and felt like velvet in the mouth. The lilac aroma also came through in the taste together with butter and a bit of tartness. Then the taste of roasted walnuts appeared at the back of the tongue. Perhaps that’s why more than half of the members of the class favored this wine over the others.

At our next class on May 21, 2009, we’ll try three of the most popular red varietals: a 2006 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir (14.3% alcohol), a 2006 Estancia Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alcohol) and a 2006 J. Lohr Paso Robles Syrah (13.5% alcohol).

See you all on May 21 around sevenish!! And don’t forget to look up past tasting notes on montaukwineclub.blogspot.com.

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Dinner March 26, 2009 Tasting Notes

Bisson Vermentino “Vignaerta” 2006

(paired with Marinated Wellfleet Clams with green chiles, lemon and herbs – delightful)

It takes a heroic effort to cultivate vines on the steep slopes of the Ligurian coastline high above the Mediterranean Sea. Mechanization of vineyard tasks is out of the question; everything must be done by hand. The Vermentino "Vignaerta" is a more elegant wine, leaner but with great complexity, showing bright acidity, brilliant length, its strong minerality leavened by notes of citrus, almond, and licorice. At the dinner, many of us found a strong taste of grapefruit. Licorice – not so much. (13% alcohol)

Grosjean Petite Arvine 2007
(paired with Bufala Mozzarella and Beets with pistachios and black olives –quite tasty)

The grape is Petite Arvine, and this wine is super clean tasting, with bright acidity due to its mountain vineyard home. It shows notes of citrus fruit with a noticeable grapefruit profile and lots of minerality and a sense of salt at the finish. When you serve it very cold, it's almost steely, but when it warms up, it opens up to reveal a richness and complexity that is quite unexpected. This wine is exceptionally good!! Dinner tasters would describe the richness as buttery or oily. (13% alcohol)

Ferrando Carema Ettichetta Bianca 2004
(paired with Porcini and Sourdough Soup with truffle spuma – outstanding)

This wine is aged for a minimum of four years, at least two in a barrel. It possesses gorgeous aromatics that lead to sweet herbs, tobacco, candied cherries, minerals and earthiness. The wine reveals stunning vibrancy and freshness with firm but beautifully integrated tannins. At the dinner, the tobacco and earthiness (as in dirt from mushrooms) really shone through. We also noticed a cherry taste and a tingle on the tongue. (13.5% alcohol)

Gour du Chaule Gigondas 2004
(paired with Roast Guinea Hen with chard, guanciale and sweet peppers – absolutely delicious)

Dark red. Deep, powerful and focused, with concentrated, expressive aromas of dark cherry, wild herbs, licorice, candied violet and Asian spices expanding and deepening with air. Vibrant, sharply focused red berry flavors accented by pepper, mace and rhubarb. Tannins build on the long finish, focusing the red fruit flavors. With this wine the licorice really did come through, and we certainly noticed the tannins. The mouth feel was smooth as glass. Very much like a Chateauneuf du Pape. The pairing with the roast guinea hen was perfect. (14% alcohol)

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Completes World Tour

Ciao Italia again! This time we traveled to Piedmont and Veneto and then said goodbye to Italy. With this tasting on March 19, 2009 we completed the tastings laid out in Andrea Immer Robinson’s book, Great Wine Made Simple. We sampled three of the four major varietals grown in the Piedmont region – Dolcetto, Barbera and Barbaresco – and had a little trouble distinguishing the Barbera from the Dolcetto. Almost everyone picked the Barbaresco though. After that we tried an Amarone della Valpolicella from the Veneto region.

Our first wine was the 2005 Patrizi Barbaresco (13.5% alcohol). Of the three, this had the palest color, being almost translucent. While it had an expansive bouquet, it had a more rustic and musty aroma, like one student’s cellar in fact. The fruit was tart cherry, and the abundant tannins really dried our tongues. As Andrea predicted, a little cheese improved the flavor of the wine.

Our second wine turned out to be the 2006 Marengo Dolcetto D’Alba (14.5% alcohol). Contrary to what Andrea described in her tasting notes, this was the darkest of the three wines which is why many in the class thought it would be the Barbera. The scent of the Dolcetto was not quite as earthy as the Barbaresco with licorice and vanilla peaking through the sour cherry. The high alcohol content came through in the smell as well. The taste echoed the scent with cherry and plum flavors. Though we definitely tasted tannins, this wine didn’t dry us out as much as the Barbaresco. We thought this was more refined than the first wine.

The last Piedmont wine was the 2005 Borgogno Barbera D’Alba (a measly 13% alcohol). This wine had more of a garnet color, but its smell was certainly not as potent as the Dolcetto’s. In fact we found it to be more complex and idiosyncratic. We could definitely taste the acidity and noted that the tannins were clearly softer than the other two wines. We found flavors of red fruits like red plums and cranberries. Some likened this to an easy listening wine whose finish slowly faded away. Perhaps this is the reason almost everyone in the class liked this wine the best of the three Piedmonts.

We then ended our first world tour with in the Veneto region with a 2005 Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella (a whopping 15% alcohol). This wine is made is fermented to dryness, so it is typically very strong and full bodied. We thought this wine had a great scent, with raisins and tar defining it. We could really taste the high alcohol content and wanted to have it with chocolate. Everyone thought it delightful and picked it as the overall favorite of the four wines we tried this evening.

So, having ended on such a high note, we discussed our plans going forward and thought we should go back and review some of the “lessons” in Andrea’s book, Great Wine Made Simple, before striking out on our own to explore some other countries like Spain, Australia and South Africa. Where better to start our review than with the Big Six – the most popular varietals of white and red wines. At our next class, which is scheduled for April 16, 2009, we’ll explore the three most popular whites with a Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2003 Piesporter Goldtrőpfchen Riesling Kabinett (9.5% alcohol), a Robert Mondavi 2006 Fume Blanc from Napa Valley (14% alcohol) and an Acacia 2006 Chardonnay Carneros from Sonoma Valley (14.4% alcohol). If you have the book, please review the tasting notes on pages 21 and 22.

See you all on April 16 around sevenish!!

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Travels to Tuscany

Ciao Italia! Our February 19, 2009 class took us to Tuscany where we sampled four different Tuscan wines that moved up the quality scale. We enjoyed one so much that one of our students ran out and acquired another bottle. Here’s what we found on our tour:

We started with a 2006 Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi (13% alcohol). It had characteristic scents of pepper, black cherry and blackberry. It also smelled a bit on the sweet side, taking us back to college dorm days. As for flavor the taste was soft and simple although some acidity and tannin would sneak through. Finally a metallic after taste took over causing some to remark that they wouldn’t get a second glass. (I think we finished the bottle during dinner anyway.)

Next we tried a 2005 Ruffina Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico (13% alcohol). This is a higher quality Chianti because the vines are grown in the hilly center and historic heart of the Chianti region. Also this is a riserva meaning it was aged in the barrel and bottle longer than the minimum required of non-riserva wines. This wine had a deeper color and a more complex scent. Not as peppery as the basic Chianti, it had a mix of floral and earthy aromas with a bit of vanilla thrown in. Some thought this combination made it smell like a steak! The taste proved to be softer and more complex also. We found some oakiness coming through with softer tannins but a full mouth feel. After taasting it for awhile, we narrowed down the steak flavor to sirloin as opposed to rib eye. Using a violin analogy, we thought this performed best at low ranges

Third we moved on to a 2007 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino (13.5% alcohol). We thought this wine performed well in all ranges. The scent was more powerful, due in part to the slightly higher alcohol content and also to the bigger, fresher fruit aromas. We also noticed the smell of dried candied fruits, vanilla and even chocolate chip cookie dough. The taste did not disappoint either, as we found it rounder and fuller with nice tannins and a very berry taste. Unlike the basic Chianti, it made us want to take a bigger sip. Very easy to drink and the favorite of all but one of the students in the class.

We ended our tour with a 2004 Villa Antinori Toscana (a sangiovese/cabernet/merlot blend; 13.5% alcohol). If the Chianti Classico reminded us of sirloin steak, this made us think of steak au poivre with its more in-your-face scent. We also picked up honey and oakiness in the smell. The taste had more spice to it, but we still liked to hold it on our tongues for awhile letting the initial burst of fruit fall off to reveal more tannins. Were it a violin, we would say it performs well at middle ranges.

Next we’re off to the Piedmont region where we’ll make three stops with a 2006 Marengo Dolcetto D’Alba (14.5% alcohol), a 2005 Borgogno Barbera D’Alba (a measly 13% alcohol) and a 2005 Patrizi Barbaresco (13.5% alcohol). Then we’ll finish off our tour of Italy in the Veneto region with a 2005 Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella (get this, a whopping 15% alcohol). Looks like we’ll get to review our different alcohol level tasting as well.

Our next class takes place on March 19 at 7ish. For those of you who have Andrea Immer Robinson’s book, Great Wine Made Simple, you can start practicing ahead of time by reviewing pages 218 through 225. I purchased the wines above at 7th Avenue Wines and Liquors in case you want to practice over the weekend.

See you all on March 19!!

Suzy Marquard

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Montauk Club Wine Class Bids Farewell to France

On January 15, 2009 the wine class made its last stop in France by visiting the Rhone Valley, home of the well-known Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The plan was to compare a cheap, but good Cotes du Rhone with a more classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape and then taste a Muscat Beaume-de-Venise. Well it turned out to be difficult to find a couple of examples of each of the Cotes du Rhone and the Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the Muscat was not to be found either. But I did find two white Rhones that were quite interesting. Here’s how our last sojourn in France went.

We started out tasting a 2006 Domaine Bernard Ange Crozes-Hermitage (13% alcohol) a white wine from the Northern Rhone region that is a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne grapes. It had a lemon yellow color with some citrus and yet grassy scents It reminded us of a chardonnay though a bit greener and more astringent than the second white that we tasted.

We then moved on to a 2004 Clos Petite Bellane Cotes du Rhone Village (13.5% alcohol). This was an unusual wine in that it was 100% Roussanne. This gave the wine a striking cognac color. The scent was much more floral with strains of gravel and earth. Here, instead of lemon and grassiness, we tasted apples – from Granny Smith to applesauce. We found it rounder, fuller and thicker in taste and mouth fell. It reminded us of autumn and rotten squash, to be paired with pork chops, whereas the Crozes-Hermitage took us back to summer and possibly would pair better with filet of sole. Which was our favorite white? It was a draw.

Our red tasting was blind as we had tasting notes in Andrea’s book to guide us. Our first red seemed ever so slightly darker with a tad more viscosity in the legs. The first impression of the scent was pepper, as it should be since the red Rhones are made from syrah grapes. Then quite a bit of plum fruit began to show through, but compared to the second red, it had a lighter, brighter taste. It was quite dry and tannic. We thought it could be enjoyed with or without food.

The second red appeared more saintly because, although just as dark as the first, it had a bit of a halo! This wine was much more intriguing with scents of cumin and coffee. The taste was meaty, even gamy, giving us a woodsy and indeed oaky experience. It, too, was quite tannic and very dry with a real mouth coating sensation. In all, this was a much more complex wine. Because of the earthiness and gaminess, most of us rightly picked this as the 2005 Image du Sud Chateauneuf-du-Pape (13.5% alcohol). The first red was a 2006 Chateau d’Aigueville Cotes du Rhone (14% alcohol).

So now its time to say adieu to France and ciao to Italy where our first stop is Tuscany. We’ll be tasting four different Tuscan wines: a 2006 Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi (13% alcohol), a 2005 Ruffina Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico (13% alcohol), a 2007 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino (13.5% alcohol) and a 2004 Villa Antinori Toscana (a sangiovese/cabernet/merlot blend; 13.5% alcohol). You see, I’ve already picked up the wines (from 7th Avenue Wine & Liquor), so if you’re inclined to get a head start, you’ll know what they are. Remember, practice makes perfect!

Our next class takes place on February 19 at 7ish. For those of you who have Andrea Immer Robinson’s book, Great Wine Made Simple, you can start practicing ahead of time by reviewing pages 201 through 217.

See you all on February 19!!

Suzy Marquard