Montauk Wine Club Explores Italy Again

Our world tours took us back to Italy for our March 24, 2011 Wine Club meeting.  And a tasty tour it was.  We started out in Piedmont (in northwestern Italy) tasting a Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2009 (100% Dolcetto grape, 13% alcohol), a Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barbera d’Alba DOC 2008 (100% Barbera grape, 14.5% alcohol) and an Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo DOCG 2006 (100% Nebbiolo grape, also 14.5% alcohol).  We wanted to see whether we could taste a difference among these three varietals from essentially the same region.  We tasted differences all right, but did we discern which was which?  Let’s see.
Our first wine had a lighter hue than the other two, but it was a bit murky in comparison.  It was fairly transparent with short-lived legs suggesting lightness of body.  We were in for an awakening (I won’t exactly describe it as rude) with the smell as we encountered the sharp fumes of airplane glue.  Not to worry, though, as some vanilla finally emerged as we kept trying.  On the tongue this wine was pretty astringent, really tightening up the mouth.  While it was smoother than the third wine, it seemed to have a lot of structure.  We could definitely trace the source of the aromas as we picked up the tastes of steel and tar.  This had to be one of the wines with the high alcohol content, and indeed it was the Barolo.  A majority of the members picked this correctly.
The second wine was hard to distinguish from the others in color, but it seemed to have slightly more legs.  Here the smell was quite sweet at first with strong fruity aromas that finally calmed down after a while. Like the first wine, this one was pretty dry, but it had a lighter, fruitier taste.  Its after taste was acidic and tannic with an overlay of dried cherries.  Only one member of the tour correctly picked this as the Dolcetto.
Needless to say, the third wine was the Barbera, but here too, only one tour member correctly identified it as such.  It was perhaps a half a shade darker than the others.  Its smell was distinctive and more complex, however, as we picked up dark fruit, limestone or clay and a little bit of spice as it opened up.  The taste was very interesting, as it started out smooth and sweet and then would leave a ping on the tongue.  We found this to be the most accessible of the three as it was more rustic and acidic with the familiar taste of cranberries.
We concluded our tour of Piedmont deciding that the Barolo was our hands-down favorite of the three.  So we decided to see how a Nebbiolo grape would stand up against a Chianti from Tuscany, which is just to the south.  For this leg of the trip we compared a Castiglione Falletto Cavalloto Langhe DOC Nebbiolo 2007 (14% alcohol) with an old favorite – Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico DOCG 2006 (13% alcohol).  This time we found it much easier to distinguish the Nebbiolo from the Chianti.
The first of the two had just a hint of orange compared to the second. It was dramatically leggy, although the legs were transparent.  Some familiar scents came out when we put it to our noses, however, as we picked up the volatile fumes of petroleum mixed with spice and old shoe leather.  The perfect balance of tannins, astringency, meat and tar made this a most enjoyable taste.
The second wine was slightly darker and more ruby in hue with smoother, slower legs.  The smell was quite different.  At first it was more floral, like rose petals, but as we continued to experience it, the fruit seemed to start to ripen and even rot, finally ending up with compost or manure pile aromas.  Thankfully, the taste was much more pleasant.  It was bright and spicy on a base of bruised or overripe cherries.
Not only did we all correctly choose the first of the pair as the Nebbiolo, we unanimously preferred it over the Chianti.  Of the evening, our favorite continued to be the Barolo Nebbiolo, however, though we’d be happy to be stranded on the Via Appia with any one of the wines tasted this night.
Our next jaunt will be something quite different as we journey to Missouri – that’s right, the middle of the USA, of all places!  We’re going to get acquainted with an up and comer on the wine scene, the Norton grape.  We’ll try Nortons from a couple of different wineries and compare them with on old standby cabernet sauvignon.  Then, while we’re still in Missouri, we’ll try out a Vignole, a white blend which we’ll compare with a Riesling.  What could be more fun (if you happen to find yourself in Missouri)?
Some come join us around 7:00 this coming Thursday, April 21 for lots of good cheer (and some good food too at 20% off!!).
See you all then,
Suzy and Jim